I picked up the new 8th Edition Orcs & Goblins codex a couple of days ago. It has inspired me to dust of the ol' Night Goblins and start painting again!
Here's my new list:
Da Bosses: 426 Points
1.) Warlord Snikrott, Night Goblin Warboss. 89
-Great Weapon, Light Armor, Enchanted Shield, Ironcurse Icon, Tailsman of Protection.
2.) Wutzbag, Night Goblin Great Shaman. 200
-Level 4, Dispel Scroll.
3.) Gitsnik, Battle Standard Bearer. 69
-Light armor, shield, great weapon. Glittering Banner
4.) Grubnutz, Night Goblin Boss. 34
-Great Weapon
5.) Durkitt, Night Goblin Boss. 34
-Great Weapon
Core Units: 1424 Points
1.) Night Goblin Archers. 100
-30 gobbos with shortbows. Musician.
2.) Night Goblin Archers. 100
-30 gobbos with shortbows. Musician.
3.) Night Goblin Spearmen- 240
-50 gobbos with spears, shields. Netters and 1 Fanatic. Musician and Banner.
4.) Night Goblin Spearmen- 240
-50 gobbos with spears, shields. Netters and 1 Fanatic. Musician and Banner.
5.) Night Goblin Spearmen- 240
-50 gobbos with spears, shields. Netters and 1 Fanatic. Musician and Banner.
6.) Night Goblin Spearmen- 240
-50 gobbos with spears, shields. Netters and 1 Fanatic. Musician and Banner.
7.) Night Goblin Spearmen- 264
-58 gobbos with spears, shields. Netters and 1 Fanatic. Musician and Banner.
Special: 105
1.) Spear Chukka. 35
2.) Spear Chukka. 35
3.) Spear Chukka. 35
Rare: 545pts
1.) Eugene the Giant. 200
2.) Mangler Squig. 65
3.) Mangler Squig. 65
4.) Snotling Pump Wagon. 45
5.) Rock Lobber. 85
6.) Rock Lobber. 85
First off, here is a shot of the whole army.
On the both flanks, i've placed 30-man units of Night Goblin Bowmen to shoot down light cavalry. 260 Goblin Spearmen, divided into five units, take up the center. In support, 3 Spear Chukkas, 2 Lobbas, a Giant, and 2 mangler squigs will hopefully make a bloody mess of the enemy's lines before they get to my weedy little goblins.
Here is Eugene, the Agoraphobic Giant. In every game he either smashes apart multiple regiments of troops like it is nothing, or takes a cannonball to the face first turn and drops dead. Such is the life of a Giant I suppose.
Made from an old fanatic model, Warlord Snikrott is leaping off of a large boulder, manically swinging his ball and chain. This pose really makes him stand out in his unit, as it seems as if he is leaping out, ready to smash some dwarven skulls.
Gitsnik, Battle Standard Bearer. I converted him by replacing his banner with the Bad Moon from the Night Goblem totem from the Battle for Skull Pass. He is probably my favorite model, as he really stands out from the rest of his unit with his oversized Bad Moon on a stick.
Armies in Antiquity
Sunday, April 10, 2011
Tuesday, March 1, 2011
Completed 10mm Warmaster Romans!
Finishing up 10mm Romans
I finally found some time to finish up the Romans. Although the lack of detail and individuality on 10mm makes painting a bit dull, I think the simplicity and speed in which you can paint an entire army totally makes up for this.
Here's a size comparison between the various scales.
Just need to finish up some detail work and glue them to their bases!
Here's a size comparison between the various scales.
Just need to finish up some detail work and glue them to their bases!
Saturday, February 26, 2011
10mm Republican Romans
Just picked up a copy of Warmaster Ancients, and a couple bags of 10mm Old Glory Romans.
This is my first attempt at 10mm- before this the smallest i've done is 15mm Flames of War and Field of Glory minis, which seem giant in comparison.
I glued the entire formation onto a piece of balsa wood. It's far easier to paint them this way. I would really recommend against gluing them to their bases first, as the tight formations will make it impossible to pick out details.
Finished painting! Time for basing.
This is my first attempt at 10mm- before this the smallest i've done is 15mm Flames of War and Field of Glory minis, which seem giant in comparison.
I glued the entire formation onto a piece of balsa wood. It's far easier to paint them this way. I would really recommend against gluing them to their bases first, as the tight formations will make it impossible to pick out details.
Finished painting! Time for basing.
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